Wooden, I don’t assume I must work too onerous to persuade you, is a reasonably superb substance. It grows out of the bottom after which turns into among the most essential issues on this planet: pencils, baseball bats, clogs, porch swings, campfires, crucifixes, tall cabinets stuffed with books (that are additionally wooden, when you squint just a little). Solomon’s temple was wooden; so was the Mayflower. So have been Kane’s Rosebud and Prince’s guitar. As constructing supplies go, wooden’s durability-to-weight ratio is mainly unmatched, due to the lengthy, skinny, hardy cell construction that helps bushes face up to excessive climate situations.
Wooden does, nevertheless, have its limitations, and lots of of them are discovered within the kitchen. Processed wooden warps, so it must be dried instantly after hand-washing (neglect the dishwasher). Moisture, use, and the passage of time can flip its fibers brittle and uninteresting, so consultants advocate treating it usually with oil. Clearly, it has been identified to catch on hearth. And although wooden is of course antimicrobial, if it splinters, these cozy natural crevices are the forms of locations the place mould, mildew, and micro organism love to hang around. There’s a cause most workhorse bowls in lots of kitchens are ceramic, metallic, or plastic.
None of this appears to matter to the individuals who lately purchased KitchenAid’s Artisan Design Collection Evergreen 5-Quart Tilt-Head Stand Mixer, which comes not with the model’s normal stainless-steel bowl, however with a walnut one. The machine appears to be like like one thing you would possibly discover in a glassy, aseptic mid-century-modern rental, possibly someplace Nordic. KitchenAid, for its half, believes that it “brings the fantastic thing about the forest dwelling” and helps “makers” “really feel like they’re out within the woods experiencing all of the revitalizing parts.”
The bowl, as a result of it’s made out of wooden, is just a little specific. “Merely hand-wash and dry instantly” begins a video tutorial that the model posted to YouTube, over peppy synths and a shot of an enviable copper-and-marble kitchen. Then the video reminds you to season the bowl usually with walnut oil, food-safe mineral oil, and/or food-safe wooden polish. When requested, in a Q&A bit on the KitchenAid web site, about whipping egg whites, an organization rep warns, “It isn’t advisable to make use of the oiled wooden bowl for whipped egg creations.”
This finicky, egg-hostile machine retails for $699 earlier than tax, greater than double the worth of the least costly KitchenAid stand mixer—regardless that it basically does what all of KitchenAid’s different stand mixers do: present a sturdy, stationary base and a strong motor for mixing dough and batter, hands-free. Paying a whole lot of {dollars} extra for a software that’s additionally extra annoying could appear counterintuitive for many who prepare dinner primarily to remain alive. However after all, the Evergreen isn’t for these folks. With this latest launch, KitchenAid is acknowledging one thing that’s been true about its flagship product for years: The stand mixer doesn’t essentially have to be straightforward to make use of, as a result of it’s not solely meant for use. It’s additionally meant to be displayed.
In 1919, when KitchenAid first launched the stand mixer, cooking—baking particularly—was crucial drudgery; the stand mixer promised to make it simpler. Nowadays, although KitchenAid sells every kind of different doohickeys, the stand mixer remains to be what the corporate is thought for. When folks say KitchenAid, they’re most likely speaking concerning the stand mixer, simply the way in which Kleenex has turn into synonymous with facial tissue.
What has modified over the previous century or so is the tradition of cooking. For many individuals, cooking is now typically leisure—one thing they do to loosen up or showcase, not simply because they must. The issues we use to do it are, commensurately, symbols: proof of a gorgeous life. KitchenAid is aware of this. As the corporate’s advertising and marketing director stated in 2007, “Analysis tells us that many much less avid cooks merely need one on their countertop, largely as a result of they like its design.” Certainly: “I NEED it,” one individual wrote on X concerning the Evergreen. Added one other, “I’d hit my nice grandmama within the ankle w a razor scooter 89 occasions for an opportunity to get my palms on this dangerous boy.”
In anthropology, fetishism refers back to the veneration of inanimate objects. Karl Marx borrowed the idea in coining the time period commodity fetishism—the concept sure items, below sure situations, can “transcend sensuousness.” They will tackle worth aside from and past their precise use or the labor required to provide them.
That’s one method to perceive the Evergreen. One other is thru the decline of the Prompt Pot, the electrical stress cooker that offered hundreds of thousands of items earlier than its mum or dad firm declared chapter final yr. A part of the issue, Amanda Mull wrote in The Atlantic, was that it labored too effectively; everybody who wished one purchased one, after which there have been no extra folks to purchase them.
KitchenAid is owned by the publicly traded equipment behemoth Whirlpool, which made about $19 billion in income final yr, however it’s not onerous to think about its executives worrying about the identical subject. Colours and supplies apart, the essential design of a KitchenAid mixer hasn’t modified a lot for the reason that mid-Thirties; the one I’ve in my kitchen just isn’t all that completely different from the one Julia Little one had in hers. It’s a easy product that does what it’s alleged to do—combine stuff—and is constructed to final. In a novelty-obsessed client tradition, that’s not an asset for an organization; it’s a legal responsibility.
There are two methods to unravel this drawback. One is to get individuals who already personal stand mixers to purchase extra stand mixers. KitchenAid, and numerous different legacy makers of high-quality home equipment, has lately adopted the “drop” mannequin, which has helped the style trade flip even low-quality clothes into collectors’ gadgets over the previous few many years. The method—launch limited-edition or specialty merchandise, typically in collaboration with beloved manufacturers—alchemizes synthetic shortage into consideration, and turns product releases into occasions. It additionally, crucially, encourages folks to purchase new variations of issues they have already got. This is the reason KitchenAid yearly releases mixers in limited-edition colours, and why, a few years in the past, the practically century-old French enamelware model Le Creuset made a Dutch oven that appears like Harry Potter: Individuals purchase them.
The opposite method to promote extra stand mixers is to get extra folks usually to purchase stand mixers—to rope in individuals who don’t want, or wouldn’t purchase, a $700 kitchen software within the first place. That is, to be clear, most individuals, even most individuals who bake. Except you might be usually making bread or processing dense doughs, a $40 hand mixer will most likely do the trick for brownies, cookies, and truffles.
However the KitchenAid mixer isn’t only a software—it’s an announcement, a talisman, a flex. Begin on the lookout for it within the background of celeb dwelling excursions and cooking exhibits and also you gained’t have the ability to cease noticing it. It says I’m collectively sufficient to tackle formidable baking tasks, and I can afford an costly equipment to assist me. In that manner, it has much less in widespread with, say, a blender than with a totally completely different object: an engagement ring. Each are costly standing symbols typically acquired within the spring of 1’s life; each are of restricted use and enduring reputation; each are signifiers of home attainment; each are issues folks excitedly submit to Instagram.
The Evergreen, in accordance with a minimum of one early assessment, does certainly work to make brownies. And within the grand scheme of troublesome developments in meals tradition, an individual of means shopping for a fussy mixer that they don’t want just isn’t that dangerous. However make no mistake concerning the message the Evergreen is sending because it sits atop your gleaming counters: On this kitchen we could not make the meals, however we’re positive throwing down some huge cash to faux.
